Guyana’s Dizzying Rise into a Fractured Reality

The Wild West Boomtown

Concrete and Chaos Collide on the Road

A Nation in Transition
Guyana’s Gilded Age


An exclusive interview with author Shaun Michael Samaroo on the complexities of a country reborn by oil wealth.


by Shaun Michael Samaroo

in conversation with QwaiAI


videos and pictures reused from the Guyana Department of Public Information


February 5, 2026


 

A State of ‘Arrival Anxiety’

Online, the story of my homeland is a tale of unprecedented success. It’s a country that’s become a social media sensation, with glitzy phrases like #GuyanaBoom and the new Dubai, promising a future flush with cash. But I see that the reality on the ground is far more complex than a trending hashtag.

The internet knows my homeland as a shimmering, new sensation, the guyanaboom hashtag splashed across social media feeds, a place where phrases like “the new Dubai” promise a future paved with gold. But as a son of this soil, I know a country’s identity is more than a digital projection. My visit is not a trip into a well-lit future, but a plunge into a complex, vital present. It’s a place where the air itself feels charged with a different kind of energy: a kinetic hum of possibility that mingles with a nervous undercurrent of what might be lost. This is a country in a breathtaking state of becoming, a living paradox where a long-held dream has suddenly arrived, and I come home to witness the collision of ambition and reality firsthand.

It is here, on this half-paved highway, where the promise of a glorious future meets the raw, disorganized present, that I found myself immersed in a nation moving at a dizzying speed.

This is not the Guyana I once knew. This is a country in a state of beautiful, unsettling becoming, and I had returned to discover what it was truly like to be at the heart of its tumultuous transformation.

The East Bank Demerara
A Road of Contradictions

QwaiAI: Welcome, Shaun. Your feature story on Guyana’s economic boom offers a powerful, multi-layered look at a nation in transition. Let’s begin with your initial impressions. Your piece opens with a very visceral, almost overwhelming description of arrival. Can you elaborate on what that felt like, what senses it engaged, and what it represents for you personally as a Guyanese returning to visit the land at this time?

Shaun Michael Samaroo: The heat hits you first, then the chaos. It’s a palpable sensation that clings to the very air, a thick, humid blanket that now carries a new scent – a faint, metallic tang of oil mingling with the heavy promise of tropical rain.

Money is the new oxygen in Guyana, and I feel the entire nation gasp for its first deep breath, a collective exhale of long-held aspirations and a sharp inhale of dizzying possibility. This is not the familiar, slow rhythm of a country I once knew, where life proceeded at the unhurried pace of the seasons. Just a few days before Guyanese choose their leaders in our 2025 national elections, I step off a midnight flight from New York and plunge into the heart of a nation remaking itself at a furious, dizzying speed.

After years living in the predictable rhythms of North America, where the future arrives on a pre-scheduled, well-lit path, returning to Guyana always recenters my soul. This journey, however, feels profoundly different. I am not just visiting; I am stepping into the world’s fastest-growing economy, a place I know intimately, yet struggle to recognize. The sensation is one of being swept up in a powerful, unfamiliar current, a kind of joyous, unsettling dread.

Former President Donald Ramotar in his usual contemplative mood. – DPI pix

The Road and the Psyche

QwaiAI: Your article mentions the staggering statistics, a 46.3% GDP expansion, but you argue that they flatten a complex reality. You also describe a very specific, frustrating moment at the airport that perfectly illustrates this paradox. Could you elaborate on that initial experience and its symbolic weight?

Shaun Michael Samaroo: My re-entry begins with a visceral thud at the Cheddi Jagan International Airport. The gleaming new terminal, a symbol of our grandest aspirations, immediately buckles under the weight of a simple, frustrating failure. Mandatory immigration forms have gone fully electronic, a clear nod to modernity and a necessary leap into the digital age, but the airport’s public WiFi is a ghost, flickering on and off, too slow to handle the load of a single planeload of tired passengers.

A collective groan ripples through the arrivals hall. We stand, a huddled mass of weary travellers, our faces illuminated in the frantic glow of our phones. We wave them in the air, searching desperately for a signal that refuses to stabilize. The system keeps rebooting, endlessly flashing a digital error message that taunts us with its promise of efficiency before mocking our patience with its chronic failure. It is a perfect metaphor for the new Guyana: a country with a world-class vision, often tripped up in last-mile execution. We have the ambition and the hardware of a major global player, but the foundational infrastructure required to make it work reliably is still a work in progress.

This small, frustrating moment of a failed connection reveals a much larger truth about the gaps that exist between our aspirations and our present reality.

President Irfan Ali, full of energy and a get-go attitude. -DPI pix

The Great Churn

QwaiAI: You describe the drive from the airport as a descent into organized chaos. What did you see, hear, and feel on that road that made it feel like a “Wild West boomtown”?

Shaun Michael Samaroo: The drive from the airport, along the lone artery of the East Bank Demerara public road, is a descent into organized chaos. This road, a lifeline for tens of thousands, presents a jarring gauntlet of construction. Giant excavators and bulldozers lie dormant under the moonlight like sleeping iron beasts, their massive buckets poised, waiting for dawn. Piles of sand, stone, and steel line the shoulders, creating a restless landscape. The roadway, half-finished and uneven, feels like a scene from a Wild West boomtown, a testament to a nation in a breathless hurry to build its future, even if it tears up the present. The journey is a constant, jarring weave between the old and the new. New, box-like concrete buildings, future homes of voracious corporations, stand stark beside weathered wooden rum shops and brightly painted Hindu temples.

The scent of fried fish and burnt sugar from a roadside vendor clashes with the dusty, industrial smell of fresh concrete. The sound of a calypso song spilling from a roadside stand-bar mixes with the grinding rumble of an idling construction truck. This road is a living, breathing paradox, a frantic symphony of progress and tradition. It illustrates how we must navigate this new terrain. We are building, but we are also tearing apart. We are creating, but we are also leaving things behind.

The past sits right alongside the future, and the sheer velocity of the change makes it feel like an urgent, necessary race, one where the finish line is both tantalizingly close and terrifyingly unknown.

Attorney General and Minister of Legal Affairs Anil Nandlall, doing his thing at an opening ceremony for a new building to serve the Justice system. – DPI pix

Entrepreneurs Race against Systems

QwaiAI: This frantic pace, as you call it, has created a new national condition. Can you explain in more detail what you mean by “Arrival Anxiety” and how it manifests in the daily lives of Guyanese?

Shaun Michael Samaroo: This frantic, disorienting pace has induced a new national condition, a collective psychological state I describe – to borrow a V S Naipaul pun-like metaphor – as “Arrival Anxiety.” It’s the profound social whiplash that occurs when the future arrives faster than a nation’s institutions, culture, and soul can possibly adapt.

We are a people shaped under a history of patience, of making do, of waiting for a tomorrow that was always just over the horizon. We found resilience in the slow burn of life, in the communal strength that came from shared struggle and a shared belief that better days would come. Suddenly, tomorrow is here, roaring down a half-paved highway, and we all scramble to get out of the way. We find ourselves in an entirely new landscape, one that values speed over community, and consumption over contemplation. This anxiety manifests everywhere. It’s in the quiet grief for a slower, more communal way of life that vanishes, replaced with a transactional urgency.

Neighbors no longer sit on their porches in the evenings; they work second jobs or worry about the rising cost of living. It’s in the new, sharp-edged pressure to display wealth, to keep up, a phenomenon amplified on social media where the signifiers of success—a new car, a trip to Miami, a table at a new high-end restaurant—are relentlessly broadcast. It’s in the widening generational gap between elders who preach caution and thrift and a youth energized with a sense of limitless, immediate opportunity. And it’s in the pervasive fear of being left behind, a fear that gnaws at the heart of the national conversation, leaving many to wonder if they truly belong in this new, fast-paced world they helped create.

A spanking new health care centre. – DPI pix

Disparity Divides a Nation

QwaiAI: You met a young entrepreneur, whose story seems to perfectly capture this anxiety. Could you tell us more about her business and the specific, day-to-day challenges she faces as a local trying to compete in this new global landscape?

Shaun Michael Samaroo: I meet this female entrepreneur, a sharp, ambitious 28-year-old who runs a small logistics company. She is the face of the new Guyana, educated, confident, and determined to claim her piece of the pie. Over the din of a trendy new café in Georgetown, she tells me her story, her voice a mix of exhilaration and exhaustion. “The Local Content law opened the door for me,” she says, “but getting through it is another story.”

She competes with well-established Trinidadian and American firms, all of whom demand a level of service and speed that is difficult for a nascent company to achieve. “They want world-class service, yesterday,” she adds. “We’re learning, but we’re learning on the fly.” Her biggest challenge is not the competition; it’s the pace of growth and the limitations of the local ecosystem. “I need to hire five more people, but the skilled ones are being poached by the big boys for double what I can pay.” The bureaucracy offers no relief. “I tried to get a loan to expand, but the bank wanted paperwork that would take me six months to produce.”

The country moves at 100 miles an hour, but some of our systems are still stuck in first gear. Her tale is the story of our private sector in miniature: bursting with potential, but gasping for air in a race it was never trained to run.

Berbice hosts its own annual Expo. – DPI pix

Human Capital Fails to Catch Up

QwaiAI: Your article powerfully mentions that the “other Guyana” reasserted itself with a sudden, five-hour blackout. What does this reveal about the country’s profound and ongoing divide between the old and the new?

Shaun Michael Samaroo: Just a couple of days after my arrival, the other Guyana reasserts itself with a familiar, humbling force. A sudden, five-hour blackout plunges Grove village and its area into a thick, suffocating darkness, triggering an immediate water shutdown. The hum of a generator on a distant street becomes the only sign of life, a rhythmic grumble that highlights the silence of the rest of the neighborhood. For an entire day, life grinds to a halt. What strikes me is the stoic acceptance. “We accustom to this,” a neighbor tells me with a shrug, their tone a mix of resignation and bitter wisdom.

This resignation is the scar tissue of underdevelopment. It’s the deep-seated expectation of a system that often fails, a psychological burden carried through generations. But in a country now flush with cash from a Natural Resource Fund holding billions, a fund meant to build a better future for everyone, this acceptance feels increasingly dissonant. How do we, as a nation, tolerate this fundamental failure of infrastructure when the headlines speak of staggering wealth and unprecedented investment?

This blackout is not just a power outage; it is a physical and metaphorical manifestation of the disconnect between the official narrative of progress and the lived reality for hundreds of thousands of citizens.

President Ali at a glittering cultural ceremony. – DPI pix

A Future in Haste

QwaiAI: You also spoke with a nurse, who seems to personify this paradox. Can you share her perspective and explain the metaphor of “catastrophic failure of our human software”?

Shaun Michael Samaroo: I think of a nurse I speak with at the Georgetown Public Hospital. She works in a newly renovated wing, a tangible result of the oil money. “The building is nice,” she says, her voice tired, “but we are short-staffed every single day. The cost of a taxi to get to work has doubled. My salary hasn’t.” Her words cut to the heart of the paradox: we are building world-class hardware, but we are at risk of a catastrophic failure of our human software.

This means we are pouring billions into physical infrastructure: the new hospitals, the roads, the bridges – but we are neglecting the people who are the very lifeblood of the country. We are not addressing the severe brain drain, the inadequate wages that do not keep up with soaring inflation, and the lack of support that crushes dedicated citizens like nurses.

The system is creating an economic divide that will be difficult to bridge, a stark reality where a brand new hospital stands, gleaming and modern, but inside, the staff struggles just to keep its head above water.

Prime Minister Mark Phillips. -DPI pix

The Diaspora’s Double-Edged Sword
– Remigrants Fuel Resentment

QwaiAI: The Guyanese diaspora is a key part of this story. Your friend represents a wave of remigrants. What role does this group play, and what are the unintended social consequences of their return?

Shaun Michael Samaroo: This new economy is shaped not just from within, but from without. The Guyanese diaspora, for so long the nation’s silent partner, is now a central actor in this drama. I have dinner with a friend who moved back from Toronto after 20 years. He bought a plot of land and built his dream home. “I always wanted to come back,” he says, “and the boom was the signal. It felt like now or never.” He is part of a wave of returning remigrants, bringing capital, skills, and a different set of expectations. They are a vital engine of “brain gain,” returning with expertise in finance, engineering, and logistics, ready to contribute to the nation’s growth.

Yet, their return is a double-edged sword. The influx of diaspora money, chasing land and property, is a primary driver of the real estate explosion that makes housing unaffordable for the entrepreneur’s generation and prices the nurse out of her own city. This creates a new, unspoken social tension between those who left and those who stayed. A quiet resentment simmers, complicating the narrative of a unified national family.

The returning diaspora brings a vital energy, but their return also highlights the widening cracks in our social fabric, challenging the bonds of community that have always defined us.

Minister Robeson Benn. -DPI pix

Geopolitics Challenges Sovereignty

QwaiAI: On the national stage, you note that Guyana is now a “strategic chessboard.” What are the geopolitical challenges the country faces, and what are the government’s major projects in response to this new reality?

Shaun Michael Samaroo: This newfound wealth thrusts Guyana onto the geopolitical stage, transforming a quiet, unassuming nation into a strategic chessboard. The border controversy with Venezuela has reignited with a terrifying fervor, transforming a historical dispute into an existential threat over the very resources funding our transformation. Simultaneously, we navigate the powerful interests of China and the United States, who vie for influence over our economy and resources. The government, led under the People’s Progressive Party/Civic (PPP/C), makes bold, ambitious moves.

They push forward with the Corentyne River Bridge to Suriname, a project that promises to connect us to our neighbor and create new economic arteries. They distribute tens of thousands of house lots, aiming to provide land and security to a burgeoning middle class. They make university education free, a visionary move that promises to build a skilled workforce for the future.

These are not small things. They are grand, nation-building projects designed to secure our future. But they are pieces of a puzzle that has not yet formed a coherent picture. They are solutions that address a part of the problem, but not the whole. The sheer scale and speed of these projects leave little room for nuanced conversations about their social and cultural impacts. We build a future in haste, and in our rush, we risk overlooking the foundational elements that truly define a nation: the spirit of its people, the strength of its communities, and the resilience of its institutions.

Ministers Kwame McCoy and Vindhya Persaud

The Crossroads of a Nation’s Soul

QwaiAI: You traveled to the Rupununi and met an Amerindian elder. His question at the end of the article is very powerful. What was his community’s experience, and what is the ultimate choice that Guyana now faces?

Shaun Michael Samaroo: I travel to the Rupununi to meet an elder in an Amerindian village, a community that feels a world away from the frantic pace of Georgetown. His community is a direct beneficiary of the government’s carbon credit sales, a policy that leverages our pristine forests to maintain our net-zero status.

“The money helps,” he tells me, gesturing to a new solar panel array, a sign of progress that feels more sustainable here. “But the young people… they see the videos from Georgetown on their phones. They see the fast life. They don’t want to farm or guide. They want to work on the oil rigs. They see the money, the quick money. They are leaving.” His question hangs over the entire nation. “How do we use this money to save our culture, not to lose it?” This torrent of new wealth pours into a society still scarred with deep-seated ethnic and political divisions, raising the stakes of political power to unprecedented heights. The wild, chaotic energy I feel on that drive from the airport is the energy of becoming. But what are we becoming? This is the urgent, unsettling question. The 2025 election is not merely a contest for the management of an economy; it is a battle for the very soul of our nation.

It is a choice about who we want to be for the next hundred years. And it is a choice we must make consciously, deliberately, before the sheer velocity of our Gilded Age makes the choice for us, before the current sweeps us away in its giddy dizziness, its glittering and mesmerizing promise to that golden city of the El Dorado mythology that so once captivated European colonialists, that gave this land its people, its place in the world, and its dreams of a life worth fighting for, worth the battle to conquer the landscape of the Amazon rainforest, the roaring muddy Atlantic Ocean, and America’s geopolitical interests.

I left Guyana with a new kind of Arrival Anxiety, not for a nation’s physical infrastructure, but for its spiritual one.

The torrent of new wealth is a stunning, undeniable force, but what does it mean to a society whose very identity was forged in struggle, resilience, and patience?

The Gilded Age promises a future built on glitter and gold, but it offers no blueprint for what we lose in the process. The real paradox isn’t between the old and the new; it’s a more profound, existential question of what happens when a country achieves a dream it was never prepared to face.

When the last barrel of oil is drawn from the sea, and the headlines of the boom fade into history, what will remain of the Guyana that I know? That is the urgent, unanswered question I carry with me, a question that lingers long after the dust of the construction sites settle.

President Ali and Dr Richard Van West Charles, who serves as Ambassador to Venezuela. – DPI pix